Amanita Hat - Free Pattern

This hat was designed to go with the Amanita Sweater. You can buy the Amanita Sweater Pattern on Ravelry.

This is a measure-along pattern with instructions rather than specific rows and stitch counts. I have included information about my gauge, the yarn and hook I used but as this is a measure along you work from your own gauge swatch and do not need to match mine.

Watch the YouTube Video Tutorial

Aran Weight Amanita Hat

Notes

• This is a measure along pattern and has been designed with the idea that you can adapt it to your head. 

• Try your hat on regularly as you are making it.

• As this is a measure-along you can technically use whatever yarn weight and hook size you choose. I don't recommend anything lighter than dk.

• Chains never count as stitches unless specified.

• The puffs and bobbles I've used are smaller than the standard puff and bobble stitches.  

• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.

  
  

Skills needed

• Chain

• Single crochet 

• Double crochet

• Bobble stitch

• Puff Stitch

• Ribbing

• Colour changing

Abbreviations

MC: Main Colour Yarn

BPC: Bobble/Puff Yarn Ch - Chain

Sc - Single crochet

Dc - Double crochet

Y/O - Yarn over

RS - Right Side

WS - Wrong Side

Sk - Skip

Materials Needed

• Yarn for ribbing

• Yarn for bobbles

• Yarn for main body of the hat

• Hook appropriate for chosen yarn

• Stitch markers

• Yarn needle

• Scissors

• Pompom

• Button

I used:

Purple Bulky weight hat: 171g/approx 267m

5.5mm hook for the ribbing.

6mm hook for the body of the hat.

Yellow Aran weight hat: 142g/approx 284m

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Start with the Ribbing

Decide how tall you want your hat ribbing.

I made a chain of 15 for both Aran and bulky weight yarn. This gives me a tall piece of ribbing that I can roll up on my hat.

The Aran ribbing was approximately 3.5" high and the bulky was approximately 4.5" high. 

I used a smaller hook for my ribbing. 5.5mm for the bulky hat. I used a 6mm for the main body.

Ch 15 (or your preferred amount of stitches) +1 extra turning chain.

Making the Ribbing

Ribbing (Use smaller hook)

Row 1: Sc into 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in every ch, ch1 for turning chain, turn,

Row 2: 1sc in back loop of each st, ch 1, turn,

Repeat Row 2 until your piece of ribbing fits comfortably around your head.

If you're using 2 or more colours:

After 2-4 rows (1-2 stripes) try switching to another colour. I decided to start out with a light grey and then switch to a brown or darker grey.

The photos show me changing colours on the same end as I started my chain. I actually found that I prefer to have my starting point on the bottom of the ribbing and change colours (what will be the top) at the opposite end. This isn't important but I prefer the way it looks when I join my ribbing at the end. Do what comes to you most naturally.

Remember to finish off the last stitch of your row with the new colour.

I only did one stripe of the darker colour at a time (one stripe = 2 rows) and switched back to the lighter grey. I sandwiched the darker colour between 1, 2 or 3 stripes at random. 

Remember to carry your darker colour along the top when it’s not being used. In the photo at the bottom of this page you can see where I've carried the unused darker yarn. 

I made my ch 1 stitch, at the top of each row, over the unused colour to keep it in place. This part will be hidden when you pick up stitches for the top part of your hat so don't worry too much if you forget to carry your yarn. Just make sure your hat will have enough stretch in it for you to wear comfortably.

When you change colour remember to finish off the last stitch with the new colour.

I carried on making rows of ribbing until it fit around my head comfortably when stretched.

Unstretched I had around a 2"gap between the ends of ribbing.

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Joining the Ribbing

Once your ribbing is big enough to fit snugly around your head you will need to join it together.

Make a final row of ribbing down to the bottom end of the ribbing (the opposite end to all the ends and carried yarn).

Place right sides together.

Ch 1 turning ch and then slip stitch ribbing together through the starting chain and the back loop of your last row.

Ch 1 at the top of your join and turn your ribbing to the right side.

Now we're going to pick up stitches along the top edge of the ribbing.

Joining the Ribbing and Picking up Stitches along the edge.

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Picking up Stitches

Alternate between picking up 2 and then 3 sc stitches in each "valley" of the ribbing (give or take a few stitches at the end to make sure you have a multiple of 3 as the total number of picked up stitches).

Alternating between picking up 2 or 3 Stitches

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Wattle Stitch Rows

Change to a larger hook - 6mm in my case.

The body is made with wattle stitch - a simple V stitch with 1sc,1ch,1dc. 

Row 1 RS: Ch 1, *(sc 1, ch 1, dc 1), skip 2* until end, 2 sts remain, slip st to first sc, 

change to darker colour, ch1, turn, 

Row 2 WS: (sc 1, ch 1, dc 1) in the ch 1 gap of each v stitch until end, slip st to first stitch, finish stitch with main upper body colour, ch 1, turn,  

Row 3 RS: (sc 1, ch 1, dc 1) in the ch 1 gap of each v stitch until end, slip st to first stitch, ch 1, turn,

Row 4 WS: (sc 1, ch 1, dc 1) in the ch 1 gap of each v stitch until end, slip st to first stitch, ch 1, turn.

Note: On the next RS row we will be carrying the bpc yarn along with our main colour yarn.

Row 5 RS: Start Row 5 in the same way that you started Row 3 except this time make the wattle stitch (shown here in yellow) around the bpc yarn (shown here in white). The white yarn will be loose until you make your first bobble or puff so be careful not to tug it out of place.

Note: On this row you will be adding puffs and bobbles randomly across the row. I aimed for a random organic look for my toadstool spots. I clustered bobbles and puffs around each other and avoided trying to evenly space them. 

At the end of the row, drop the bpc yarn and slip stitch your main colour yarn into the first sc of the row, ch1 and turn.

Row 6 WS: Row 6 is the same as Row 4

Note:

• White spots are only added on right side rows so don’t carry the white yarn along wrong side rows. Simply drop the white yarn on the WS side row and pick it back up for your next right side row. This will create a little diagonal line of yarn on the inside of your hat. 

• Remember to keep tugging your white yarn gently through so you don't end up with loose loops on the inside.

Keep trying your hat on as you work on it.

Repeat Rows 5 and 6 until you can hold the hat closed at the top.

Wattle Stitch, Puffs and Bobbles

I made 14 wattle stitch rows in bulky weight before decreasing.

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Decrease Rows

Row 1 RS: Ch up 3 at the start of the row and make a dc stitch in the ch 1 space of every wattle V stitch, sl st to top of chain 3

Row 2 also RS: Ch up 3, dc2tog all the way around. You may have 1 left over st. Just make a dc into it and sl st to first double crochet.

Cut a 30cm length of yarn and fasten off.

Thread your yarn onto a needle and weave the yarn in and out of the top of the dc sts. Pull tight to close.

You might find you need to make more decrease rows. If so, repeat row 2 as many times as necessary.

Decreasing, Button inside the Hat, Finished Hat

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Adding the Button and Bobble

Bring the excess yarn through to the inside of your hat and use to sew your button on the inside of your hat.

Once your button is secure weave the ends of your yarn in.

Attach your pompom to the hat by securing the elastic piece around the button.

You can also make your own pompom and sew it in place or choose not to have a pompom.

Weave in your ends and enjoy!

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Amanita Hat Testers

Above: Some of my amazing Amanita Hat Pattern Tester Team.

Top: @tortietreblemakerdesigns, @make.knots.with.dee, @homemadeheartdesigns

Middle: @nativecreativecrafts, @knotedthread, @simplysiren13

Bottom: @jaydeedeecrafts, @summerlandcottage, @nikitadoomcrochets

Make the Sweater to match your hat!

#freepattern #hatpattern #crochetpattern #wintercrochet